Precious golden dust

No, my friends, that’s not gold dust.  Although it may as well be. It took me so long to distill this powder that it’s as precious as gold to me.

It’s fennel pollen: the pollen produced by flowering, wild fennel plants.

The last time I had it, I was sitting in a simple lakeside Trattoria in the beautiful town of Trevignano Romano on Lake Bracciano about an hour from Rome.

We ordered grilled fish and salad and that’s exactly what we got.  A simple fillet of grilled fish and a salad consisting of crispy lettuce leaves dressed with a classically sharp Italian dressing of olive oil and wine vinager.

Here’s my handsome husband (right) with a friend of ours waiting for our lunch that very day.

You can see the lake in the background although it’s a little washed out. The fish came from the lake and was a revelation.  It was simply grilled and seasoned with salt, pepper and what I discovered, after questioning our waiter closely, was fennel pollen. It was, quite simply, divine. One of the very best meals I’ve ever eaten. The kind of thing you might request as your last.

I have searched high and low for fennel pollen. I did exhaustive internet research.  I rang Herbie’s spices. I even coerced my brother-in-law who, until recently, worked at Circa, the Prince to ask the head chef there who I know is passionate about seasonal, home-grown produce.  He collects his own.

So I did what any desperate person would do.  I enlisted the help of a Greek.

My darling Greek grandfather-in-law took to his flowering fennel plants with some form of sharp implement and hacked off some heads for me. Fennel heads, that is.

Anyway, I let them dry for ages in a paper bag and then one day some months later, when they were totally desiccated, I began the sifting process.

It was a long (at least 45 minutes) and fiddly process that involved not one but two sieves, one of which was one of those very fine metal mesh sieves you push raspberries through to remove the seeds.

Finally I ended up with what you see in the first photo.

And just in case you thought I was getting too over-the-top foodie on you with my precious fennel pollen,  then here’s something that might make you giggle.

These cards are from Greenwich Letterpress and are two of a funny series that is designed to illuminate those of your dinner guests who aren’t food snobs and don’t spend their lives poring over Gourmet Traveller i.e. actually have a life.

Just in case you can’t make out the fennel pollen card it says:

“Fennel pollen. Exotic, pricey greenish-yellow dust collected from wild fennel plants and used as a seasoning in ambitious restaruants, where its herbacious funk is deployed to cut through the richness of such main course as scallops and sweetbreads.”

Now, I hardly think ‘La Tavernetta’ on the shores of Lake Bracciano qualifies as an “ambitious restaurant” in the same way that I don’t think my love of fennel pollen really qualifies me as a food snob.  After all, I did eat nearly 400 grams of cooking chocolate this afternoon in a late afternoon sugar binge. But let’s just keep that between you and me shall we?

Now the search is on to find a recipe that will do my precious dust justice.


10 thoughts on “Precious golden dust

  1. im enthralled. and obsessed with food. so now i really really want to try some. look forward to hearing what recipe makes it all worthwhile. like your work!!

  2. Uh…to me, this would be as precious as real gold dust to have—maybe more. You’ve really sold me on it. Please let us know what you make with it and how it turned out. I’ve thought about trying to make my own saffron. Have you ever tried that?
    Also… I posted a link to you for the Kreativ Blogger award because I really find your blog so inspiring. But, you already know my feelings. 🙂 I hope you like it.

    • Oh Dale, thanks so much for the award. That’s really so lovely of you. I’m honoured to be included in your list and very much appreciate your kind words about my blog. I feel the same about yours.
      I’ve never tried crocus (it’s crocus right?) or harvesting saffron but the thought is alluring. I’ll certainly let you know when I find a recipe.

  3. One of the things I love about your blog is reading about the history, love and care with which you tend to the smallest detail of something you are making. xx

    And after tending to such detail …I’d be sending HH out fishing for some really fresh fish, grill it then sprinkle the pollen on it and enjoy it! After of course an entre of stinging nettle risotto (he hand picked from the side of a country road) and before the home made lemon gelati (lemons from your tree out the back). All washed down with a little vegemite glass of hand pressed fermented grape juice.

    • And one of the things I love about you is your support and lovely comments. Yes, I think fresh fish is the go. I’ve found a Tetsuya barramundi recipe that might fit the bill. I did make stinging nettle risotto last year. It’s so delish. Has an unexpected minerally, sea flavour.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )


Connecting to %s